Friday, June 17, 2011

Chinatown

Since Chinatown is only one MRT stop away from where I work, I go there every now and then, usually to meet friends for a drink after work or to eat dinner (Eight Treasures Vegetarian Restaurant! Try the braised peanuts!). But I've never really spent quality time exploring and I've never done a decent blog post about it, so I decided to finally try to do it justice.

The Chinatown experience starts as soon as you get off the MRT. Seriously. The escalator up from Chinatown station dumps you off on Pagoda Street, an alley full of colonial shophouses and red lanterns. It's a great view!
Coming up from the MRT
A fantastic welcome to Chinatown
Shophouses on Pagoda Street

The vibe in Chinatown is great. No matter when you go, it's always thrumming with life- vibrant red and gold colors adorn every corner, shopkeepers chatter non-stop, tourists scurry around, the sound of music drifts from nearby temples, smells of barbecued meat (bak kwa) and durian fill the air. It's hard not to feel excited.

Apparently Pagoda Street was a completely different place in the 1800's, full of opium dens that were frequented by slave traders. It's much more mellow than all that now, and I spent some time browsing in the shops along the street. No opium in sight! But in case anyone wants to buy me a present, I think I could go for a dragon marionette. Look how cool they are!
Crocs are not cool enough to be hangin' out with dragons.
These are hanging on all the doorknobs in our flat, I think for good luck.
Red lanterns bring good luck AND warn away evil spirits. Powerful little guys.

One shop seemed a little out of place among the Chinese calligraphy drawings and red lanterns. It was the Tintin Shop, a store specializing exclusively in toys and paraphernalia featuring the cartoon character Tintin. It just opened about six months ago, and it still has that spankin' new feel. It was a neat little place, and it kind of reminded me of the Toy Museum.
Check out this link for more about the Tintin Shop.

The end of Pagoda Street is dominated by Sri Mariamman Temple, which was originally constructed in 1827, making it the oldest Hindu temple in Singapore. It's kind of bizarre to see a massive Hindu temple nestled into a neighborhood dominated by Chinese culture, but it's so beautiful that you soon forget that it's mismatched.
The impressive entrance tower was built in the 1930's
Beautiful temple, beautiful day

I stood outside the entrance for a minute, snapping some photos and taking off my shoes before going inside. As I stood there, a young European tourist couple walked up next to me and stared disbelievingly at the sign telling people to take off their shoes before entering. The guy said loudly, "I am NOT leaving my shoes out here!" he looked around, "They'll get STOLEN!" I looked at him, then at his ratty, tattered loafers. Doubtful, dude. No one wants your smelly shoes, I thought to myself. But he wasn't taking any chances. After another suspicious look around, he pulled off his shoes and protectively tucked them into his backpack as though someone was going to lurch out of the shadows and snatch them from him at any moment.
Sacred Brahman cow
Krishna is the same color as the sky! Cool, huh?

The inside of the temple was really gorgeous. Hindu temples are always extraordinarily colorful and this one was no exception. Some of the prettiest artwork was on the ceiling, and I spent so long staring that my neck hurt by the time I left!
So peaceful!
Interior detail
Perplexing ceiling art
Trippy mandala on the ceiling
That peacock looks like a hippogriff. I'm just sayin'.
Fake statue, real birds!

After admiring the inside of the temple for awhile, I stepped outside to walk around the temple. I love the attention to every minute detail. I felt like I could have sat down and stared at each part of the temple for hours and still not have absorbed all the little stuff.
Wide shot
Vishnu. And lions!
Panoply of gods and other important figures
My mom used to make this face at me when I was bad!
Lovely goddesses

Just as I was leaving, some people inside the temple started playing music. We often hear music floating up through our windows from the Hindu temple next to our apartment, so it was a familiar and comforting sound. I smiled as I walked outside and put my shoes back on (yes, they were still there. Crazy paranoid guy had nothing to worry about). I walked a little ways down South Bridge Road. The sun was beating down even in the late afternoon so I stopped for a 100 Plus (my fave, and not available in the US!). As I sipped it, I paused to snap a picture of the quaint little Jamae Mosque but the sun was so intense that it was hard to get the photo. The shadow's neat though!
Sunny Jamae Mosque

I continued my tour of Chinatown's religious diversity by walking back down South Bridge Road, past Sri Mariamman Temple, and to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple. The Tooth Relic Temple is the kind of thing that leaves you standing awe-struck on the sidewalk. It's huge and imposing while still managing to be inviting. Just looking at it makes me feel like I've been whisked away to a serene landscape in China instead of a busy Singaporean sidewalk.
From across the street

I crossed the street and snapped some shots from the entrance before entering the small courtyard. The entrance is flanked by two awesomely intimidating statues that kind of reminded me of Triton from The Little Mermaid.
This is pretty much how I look before my morning coffee.
Entrance sign
In the courtyard, looking up

 Before walking into the actual temple, I grabbed a shawl from a bin underneath a sign encouraging women with sleeveless tops (like mine) to cover their shoulders. When I stepped across the threshold into the temple, one of the first things I noticed was the difference in the atmosphere. While Sri Mariamman was reminiscent of a carnival, what with all the animals and bright colors, the Tooth Temple feels more like an inviting library- everything is cozy, but hushed and reverent.

The focal point of the main room of the temple is the Maitreya Buddha (a.k.a. the Future Buddha), flanked by two bodhisattvas.According to signage within the temple, the resplendent statue is carved from thousand-year-old Chinese juniper from Taiwan.
Maitreya Buddha and bodhisattvas

Lining the walls of the main room are one hundred Buddhas, each one unique. Each of the hundred Buddhas has its own identity, and copying and reciting all the names of the Buddhas is supposed to cleanse you of hatred and fear. I didn't learn all of their names, but I did enjoy admiring their many poses and the objects they were grasping. My favorites held animals- one a cobra, one a miniature elephant, another a tiny dragon.
A Buddha sampler

Eventually I meandered into the back room of the temple, which was dominated by a bodhisattva with a mouthful of a title: Cintamanicakra Avalokitesvara. The six-armed bodhisattva is portrayed in the feminine form, and is said to have the power to grant wisdom.
Big statue, even bigger name

Also inhabiting the room are the guardian deities for each sign of the zodiac. I dutifully searched for my guardian deity, the one designated for people born during the year of the rat. Every time I think about my zodiac sign, I'm bummed. A rat?! Really?! Why can't I have one of the cool ones like the TIGER?! Or, even better, THE DRAGON! But no. It's the rat for me. Finding my guardian deity lifted my spirits a bit. You know who's looking out for the rats of the world? Thousand Arm Avalokitesvara! A THOUSAND ARMS! Pretty sweet.
Coolest guardian deity ever. Check out the arms!

I spent some time poking around in search of the tooth of the Buddha that is housed in the temple but learned that it's on the fourth floor and is only open to the public on certain days of the year. Even then, I don't think I could have seen it because I heard that they limit access to Buddhists only, which is understandable.

Satisfied with my exploration of the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, I returned my shawl and continued my leisurely stroll around Chinatown. I didn't do much else, but did enjoy pausing to read signs posted to inform tourists about the historical significance of certain areas. For instance, I learned from one sign that Sago Lane used to be lined by "death houses," which were places where Chinese immigrants would go to die so as to avoid dying in their homes, thus cursing the remaining residents of the home with the bad luck that occurs after someone dies in the house. I'm not generally a superstitious person, but I think that now that I know this, you might have to pay me money to spend a night on Sago Lane. Another sign outlined the rough lives led by prostitutes in Chinatown's brothels back in the old days. I think I'm glad I visited it in 2011, when the seediest thing going on seemed to be the sale of knock-off "Gocci" handbags!
Street of the Dead

Wednesday, June 15, 2011

The Differences Continue- 31 More Things

When I made the first list of differences between Singapore and the U.S., I thought I'd covered pretty much everything by making broad statements about things like food. But we've been in Singapore for 23 months, and differences continue to occur to us. Here are 31 more!

1) This country is acronym-OBSESSED. There's an abbreviation for everything, and the acronyms are used so broadly that you pretty much have to learn them in order to understand a conversation. Here are just a few: AYE= Ayer Rajah Expressway; EP= Employment Pass; PIE= Pan Island Expressway; MRT= Mass Rapid Transit; FIN= Foreign Identification Number; NTU= Nanyang Technological University; NUS= National University of Singapore; CNY= Chinese New Year; BKE= Bukit Timah Expressway; SMS= Short Message Service (a "text" here is called an SMS); HP= handphone (not Harry Potter); OCBC= Oversea-Chinese Banking Corporation. For a more exhaustive list, see this extensive Wikipedia entry, which will help you decode Singapore acronym-speak.

2) In the US, typically you get into a taxi, tell the driver where you want to go, and he takes you there. Not so here. You get into a taxi, tell the driver where you want to go, and he usually asks how you want to get there, e.g. "You want to go by PIE or AYE?" This was particularly unnerving when we first got here and didn't know the PIE from an actual slice of pie.

3)  Because S'pore seeks out and hires "foreign talent," there are people living here from all corners of the globe. Bryan and I work with people from Australia, the US, Finland, South Africa, England, India, Japan, Malaysia, Pakistan, Germany, Ghana, and more. Of course the US has people from all over the world too, but not in a concentrated little area like S'pore.
Friends, colleagues, acquaintances
Colleges would kill for this kind of diversity in their admissions pamphlets.

4) Due to #3, there are people speaking all sorts of languages here. It's not uncommon to be hanging out with people who will occasionally converse in a language you don't understand. It can be unnerving to hear two people suddenly switch from English to another language while you sit there, clueless, wondering if they're talking about how ugly your shoes are, or the fact that you have spinach in your teeth.

5) Thrift shops, which are super common in the US, are practically non-existent here. No Goodwill! There are a few shops here- I know of some Salvation Army locations- but as far as I can tell, they're not utilized nearly as much as the ones in the US. A S'porean friend was moving to the States, and was worried about the cost of furnishing his apartment. I told him he could get furniture cheaply at secondhand shops like Goodwill, and he was positively flabbergasted! He couldn't imagine why such things aren't everywhere here in S'pore.

6)  In the US, if a restaurant has a long waiting time, we're likely to give up and go elsewhere. S'poreans, on the other hand, will queue forever if it means getting the best roti prata. The long line isn't a deterrent - it just means that the food is worth waiting for!

7)  There's no welfare system in Singapore.

8)  Although I went to high school with my fair share of pregnant teens, I've yet to see a Singaporean girl rockin' a baby belly under her school uniform. This might be because Singapore's teen birth rate is about one NINTH of the US's.

9)  In a lot of clothing stores, as soon as you step in, someone descends upon you, offering you clothes that you would never wear. Then, if you pick up anything, they'll pick up ten more things that bear a vague resemblance to what you chose ("Oh you like that yellow t-shirt?! You'll love these yellow rain galoshes!"), toss the stuff into your arms, and jostle you into a dressing room. Half the time they give you the wrong sizes. It's exhausting to buy clothes around here.

10)  There's a government campaign for nigh on everything around here: wiping out dengue, being kind, proper window maintenance, killer litter, keeping public restrooms clean, washing hands, eating whole grains, and my personal favorite, making babies.
Keep those bathrooms clean, Singapore!

11) When S'poreans sneeze, most of the time no one says "Bless you" or "Gesundheit" or anything. One time I was having a sneezing fit in a taxi and the driver kept looking at me in the mirror. Finally he said, "You know, that means someone's talking about you!"

12)  In office buildings and other public places, cleaning crews take out the trash in a way I never encountered in the US. They go to every small trash can (like the ones people have in individual cubicles), pluck the trash out with salad tongs and toss it into a big trash bag, leaving the small trash can liner behind. It's nice that they don't waste all those little plastic bags. I remember feeling distraught at the wastage when someone would take an entire trash bag away because there were a few sheets of paper in the bottom.

13)  If you get sick and need  to stay home from work, you need a note from the doctor (a "medical certificate" or "MC"). Nothing can make you feel like a child as much as being told that you must have a NOTE from the doctor to miss work. I feel like I'm asking my mom to write me an excuse so I can stay home from school. Aside from that, sometimes you're sick but you just don't WANT to go to the doctor.  Here you have to. And the doctor gives you medicine every time, usually antibiotics. It all seems very weird to me, and makes me feel untrusted.

14) Back in the US, when you don't feel like cooking and decide to have food delivered, you often choose between Chinese and pizza. Here in S'pore, although you can enjoy Chinese food at any number of neighborhood hawker centers, delivery is much less common. And if you do manage to get Chinese delivery, it certainly doesn't come in those cute little white boxes with fortune cookies on the side!
Not  the Singaporean way
img from www.victoria-bc-for-locals.com

15) A lot of people here hire what are called "Foreign Domestic Workers," who typically live with the family they work for. FDW's serve as a kind of maid/nanny/cook combo. They mostly come from less well-off countries such as Indonesia and the Philippines, and are paid, on average, $200-$300 USD a month. If they get pregnant, they are promptly deported. I don't know of anything comparable in the US, with the possible exception of hiring an illegal immigrant.

16) Books are much more expensive here than in the US. For example, we found a used copy of American Gods, which we wanted to read. It cost a little over $12 USD. On the back of the book was the price it would have sold for brand new in the US: $7.99 USD.

17) More lingo. The delicious substance that we refer to as "egg salad" in the U.S. is called "egg mayo" here in S'pore. I have to say, I think egg mayo is a much more accurate title. It always seemed antithetical to me to pack something full of fatty mayonnaise and then refer to it as salad. Also, "hiking" is called "trekking" here, and the trunk of the car is the "boot."

18) Buying stuff online is much easier in the US. Here, if I want to save a few dollars by buying a used book on Amazon, by the time I've paid for it to be shipped halfway around the world, I've negated most or all of the savings that I might have had. Plus I have to wait for it to get here, which can take awhile (18-32 days for standard shipping from Amazon).

19) Doing research here is strange. In the US, I was used to writing up papers and saying whatever I wanted to say. Here in S'pore you have to be more careful about saying things that could be interpreted as critical, particularly against the government.

20) The military here sometimes uses cable TV for some kind of military exercise. It's weird. You'll be minding your own business, watching Ninja Warrior (probably the most awesome show of all time, with the exception of MXC) and then something like this will flash on the screen:
Top-secret military stuff
Usually the words are accompanied by a green flashing military guy that looks like a GI-Joe. I don't know what the purpose is, but given the choice, I'd definitely go with fighting swordfish. Hands down. Anyway, you can just keep watching your show, as long as you don't mind the green dude up in the corner.

21) In the wake of the Anthony Weiner scandal (I'm going to refrain from making weiner jokes here, because every time I think about this I just feel overwhelmed by the endless possibilities), I've been thinking- we moved to S'pore two years ago and have never heard of any sex scandal from an elected local official. Given Singapore's more conservative culture, and politicians who are known for being some of the least corrupt in the world, it's possible that such things are very rare here. However, given the lack of freedom of the press, it's also possible that such things do happen but are repressed. Whichever is the case (maybe it's both), it's certainly different from the States, where politicians' seedy behavior frequently make headline news (Eliot Spitzer, John Edwards, Bill Clinton, Arnold Schwarzenegger, on and on).

22) In the US, when a television show starts, a little rating, like PG or M (for mature audiences only), pops up in one of the top corners. The rating is sometimes accompanied by smaller letters to explain what's offensive about the content (e.g. D, L, S, V for Drugs, Language, Sex, Violence). Singaporean TV doesn't have a standardized TV show rating system.

23) In Singapore, and apparently much of the rest of the world, Labor Day is celebrated at the beginning of May. In the US, it's celebrated in September, and marks the end of summer.

24) Every four years in the US, a presidential election rolls around. In the year leading up to it, there are all sorts of programs to motivate people, especially young people, to turn up and vote on Election Day. Despite trendy, youth-oriented programs like Rock the Vote and the Vote for Change tour, voter turnouts generally stay below 60% of the voting-age population, prompting the political talking heads to repeatedly lament the apathy of a generation more likely to vote for the next American Idol than the next American president. Voting is compulsory in Singapore, so turnout is obviously much, much higher. Instead of campaigns encouraging people to vote, there are public service announcements telling people how to proceed on Polling Day (a public holiday) so that the whole process will be completed in an orderly fashion.

25) There are a lot of Chinese traditions that are followed in Singapore. The pregnant admin assistant at my work filled me in on some of the beliefs surrounding pregnancy. She said that women aren't supposed to bathe or shower for the first month or pregnancy, aren't supposed to eat pineapple, attend funerals, or drink plain water, opting instead for water flavored with longan.
Longan fruit

26) We recently learned that the blood donation guidelines differ between the US and Singapore. In the US you have to weigh 110 lbs; in S'pore the minimum is 99 lbs. In the US, your blood is not accepted if you've recently visited a malaria risk zone or other disease-risk area. S'pore is more lenient about blood donation after visiting a malaria risk zone. If you've been somewhere like Laos or Myanmar recently but you're a healthy weight, S'pore will still accept your blood, whereas the US would probably shoo you out the door and then disinfect the chair you were sitting in. S'pore bans you from donating blood if you've EVER smoked marijuana or done any other drugs. The US blood donation guidelines make no mention of marijuana, excluding only those who've abused intravenous drugs.

27) In Singapore, many employees get something called the "13th month bonus." At the end of the year, you get an extra month's pay! Most Singaporeans already know this, and take it into consideration when examining an employment contract and calculating annual salary, but I had no idea and was thrilled to be given a bonus paycheck!

28) In the US, bounty-hunting is legal, but it's illegal in Singapore (and every other country in the world except the Philippines). And no, Singaporeans, not all American bounty hunters are as ridiculous as Dog the Bounty Hunter and his absurdly busty sidekick Beth. And the bleached 80's mullet is not the standard uniform.

29) Singaporean men seem very open about their bodily functions. Taxi drivers belch loudly with no apologies, uncles stroll down the street while loudly clearing phlegm from their chests, and more than once I've heard flatulent men on the MRT just letting 'em rip. I always seem to be the only one who's surprised, but I'm just not used to that kind of openness. My dad couldn't even burp in his own house without a chorus of protests: "EWWWW DAD GROSS" (me) or "Oh Chuck, say 'EXCUSE ME'!" (my mom).
Best taxi driver ever: Belched like a champ then sang me
some golden oldies!


30) In Singapore, it is expected that children will care for their parents as they age. In fact, for elderly who can't support themselves, there's something called the Maintenance of Parents Act which allows Singaporeans aged 60 and over to sue their parents for support! Pay up for Mom and Dad's medical bills, or you might be facing a judge!

31) I've mentioned Singaporean censorship before, but I thought movies and TV shows were mostly edited for sex and violence. I recently learned that homosexuality is also censored. Two weeks ago I became confused while watching an episode of Glee. Given that Glee isn't exactly intellectually taxing stuff, I did some digging and found that I'd missed part of the show - all the gay kisses had been edited out, and since one of the main characters is gay, his social life was missing a couple pieces and had therefore become a little confusing. Heterosexual kisses are commonly shown on TV here.

If I've missed any in this or the past four lists (one, two, three, four), let me know in the comments and maybe I'll include them in the next edition!

Friday, June 10, 2011

Singapore Blog Awards

I am very excited to tell you all that Crystal and Bryan in Singapore is a finalist in the Lifestyle category in the Singapore Blog Awards! Hooray! Of course, making it into the Top 10 is an honor and I am very flattered. But now that I'm a finalist, I'd love to go all the way and WIN! There are wonderful prizes to be had, including a trip to Australia, which would really give me something fun to blog about! So if you've enjoyed reading the blog over the past couple of years, click here and vote for me. You can vote every day until July 3rd.

Come on, you know you can't resist that little monkey face! He WANTS you to vote for me!

It seems that you can only vote if you have a Singaporean ID number, but anyone can click the facebook "like" button, and that helps too! Thanks to those of you who have voted and liked me on facebook already. No matter what happens with the Blog Awards, I enjoy doing the blog and have loved getting to know Singapore through blogging. Thanks for reading and sharing our adventures!

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Eco Music Challenge

For the past couple of years, the National Environment Agency has been sponsoring a songwriting competition called the Eco Music Challenge. The competition asks people to submit original music with an environmentally friendly message, and individuals who participate stand to win big cash prizes and chances to perform. The winners of last year's competition performed on Wednesday at Timbre @ the Substation. As a member of a blogging club, I was asked to attend, and thought a night of live music sounded like a lot of fun!
Goodies

Having never been there before, it took Bryan and I awhile to find Timbre. We found the Substation so knew we were close, but we couldn't see any sign of a place called Timbre. It turned out to be down a small alley, behind the Substation. Geez! Anyway, the music started later than expected so it was no big deal that we were a little late. And we got goodie bags! I have to admit...I had to question why they gave out goodie bags of stuff we didn't really need. Did Bryan really need a copy of Seventeen magazine? Isn't it a little bit counter to the eco-friendly message to hand out unnecessary stuff?

Anyway, I liked the venue quite a bit. Timbre @ the Substation is mostly outdoors and covered by a tent, with a bar on one side and a stage on the other. It reminded me a lot more of places I've been in the U.S. than places I've been in Singapore, possibly because we saw a lot more live music in the U.S. than here.
Timbre @ the Substation

We munched on some snacks while we waited for the music to begin. The performers were the winners of the 2010 Eco Music Challenge. The first guy up turned out to be one of my favorites of the whole evening. He performed a song composed by Haramain Osman called Heaven on Earth, which was (confusingly) also the name of the song that won last year. I took a video, but it turned out to be pretty low-quality. You can hear 30-second previews of all the top songs from last year here. The next performance was interesting because it was a whole band, and their song was performed in Chinese, which I thought was pretty cool even though I had no idea what they were saying!


There were a  few more performances, but for me the highlight of the night was the winner of the 2010 challenge. The song was "Heaven on Earth," composed by Kathryn Cheng and Rafaee Mahmood. It was performed by Jill-Marie Thomas, the winner of the local TV talent show One Moment of Glory. The song was good, and Jill-Marie Thomas has a great voice. I took a video of it but unfortunately it didn't turn out very well either. The video below is from the Clean and Green Singapore campaign, which used the song as their theme this year.


After Heaven on Earth, Thomas did a cover of Katy Perry's "Firework," which was also really good.
Jill-Marie Thomas performing Firework

One thing I didn't like was that it was hard to tell who was singing the songs. All of the stuff about the music challenge lists the composers of the music, but not the performers, who were often different from the composers. The composers obviously worked hard and did a great job, but I thought the performers deserved a little credit too. Anyway, overall it was a nice night. I have to admit that when I first heard about the Eco Music Challenge, I thought there was a pretty good chance that the songs would all be kind of cheesy, and it might turn out to be a whole evening of listening to reimaginations of Kumbaya. But the songs were much better than I expected - for the most part, the environmentally friendly message came through without sounding forced or hokey.

If you're the musical, creative type and you want to compete for lots of money (first prize is SGD $5000), you can enter this year's Challenge yourself, just follow this link. Submissions are due June 20, so don't procrastinate!