Showing posts with label sightseeing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label sightseeing. Show all posts

Saturday, June 2, 2012

Australia Day Five: One More Day in Darwin

We had pretty vague plans for our last day in Darwin. We slept in and checked out of our hotel pretty late. Our flight out of Australia left in the early evening, so we had almost a whole day to spend hanging around. Our first order of business was food, and I was eager to try a place I'd been eyeballing on our map since we arrived in Australia. It was called Simply's, and specialized in healthy vegetarian food. Bryan was less enthusiastic, but good-naturedly allowed himself to be dragged along. Man, I was SO glad we found that little place. It was THE best meal I had in Australia, and I didn't even have to feel guilty about eating it! Bryan seemed to enjoy his falafel, although he was perhaps a little less enthusiastic than me.
Mexican pie and SIX kinds of salad. Curried pasta salad was my fave.

While hanging out at the restaurant, we dug through our wallets and admired all our Australian cash. It's so pretty! I think every country has more colorful currency than the US!
Like Monopoly money, but with kangaroos on it

After lunch, we walked over to a little Irish pub and had some cider while we watched bowls on TV. Have you ever seen bowls?! Apparently it's some huge thing in Australia. It's kind of like bocce ball, except that instead of doing it casually at a cookout with your family like Americans do in their backyards, Australians do it professionally at bowls clubs and they are DEAD SERIOUS about it. It was pretty fun to watch, so I see how people get so into it.

Eventually we peeled ourselves away from a riveting bowls match and walked over to the Esplanade. There's a path along the Esplanade that meanders along through a park area and along the water, but there isn't really any beach to lounge around on. We did see some neat stuff, including some more birds.
Rainbow bee-eater
Two zebra doves

In our aimless wanderings, we meandered into a historical district with cool old buildings and neat sculptures. One of the most impressive buildings was the Christchurch Anglican Cathedral, built in 1902 and still in use as a church today. The church even survived being hit by a bomb during World War II!
Christchurch Anglican Cathedral

The sculptures scattered around the historical district were pretty cool. These were two of my favorites.
Reminded me of demons!
Tawny frogmouth owl sculpture named "Chinute Chinute"
by amazingly named artist Koolpinyah Barnes

We wandered town a while longer, but the historical district was really the last interesting thing we saw before heading back to the airport, where we had a very strange dinner at Fannie Bay Ale House. We got nachos that had....marinara sauce and mozzarella cheese?! Probably the strangest interpretation of nachos I've ever seen. It's like something I'd come up with when we're running low on groceries.

After dinner and a very thorough security screening (Australia does not mess around about airport security), we boarded our Jetstar flight back to Singapore. It was very strange - that flight was the last time that we would be flying back into Singapore! But more on that later...

Oh yeah! Did I mention that we're finalists in the Singapore Blog Awards?! It would be super if you'd vote for us!

Sunday, April 22, 2012

Borneo Day Three: Bako to Kuching

Our last day in Borneo started out early. We had an appointment to meet Mohammed, our boatman, on the beach at 8 AM. We got up bright and early and were greeted by long-tailed macaques on our porch. One sat in a tree and placidly watched me through a window as I brushed my teeth.
Look closely - there are 3 monkeys on the roof
and one climbing the porch railings!

We didn't linger long to watch the monkey antics, knowing that Mohammed would be expecting us. He met us on the beach, looking awfully chipper for 8 AM!
Good morning, Mohammed!

We tugged our boots off, waded out to meet him and clambered into the boat. It was a beautiful, sunny morning, and it was a great chance to admire the scenery on our way out.
Can't get enough of those stunning sandstone formations

There were lots of fishermen out in the morning. I imagine it's a lot more pleasant to fish before the scorching sun starts beating full-force! The jellyfish guys were there again, still hard at work!
Jellyfish bigger than their heads!
Catchin' some fish

The ride back was over before we knew it, and we told Mohammed goodbye. At the boat place, we asked if we could hire a car to drive us back into Kuching. We were told there was a bus, but Bryan and I hadn't had breakfast and were willing to pay a few extra dollars  to expedite the process. But for your reference, if you ever end up in the same place - we later found out that the bus is super cheap, clean, fast, and comes frequently. Anyway, we ended up getting a ride from a talkative local. He really seemed to think we were silly to pay for a ride, and he offered to drop us off in his part of town for no charge at all. From there, we could take a water taxi across the river for about 50 sen each (about 15 cents USD). It seemed kind of weird that he would take us for free, and Bryan and I initially declined, but the driver was super persistent so eventually we relented.

The driver took us right to the water taxi, which ferried us across the river for 1 RM total, in a matter of about 30 seconds. Somehow we'd ended up exactly where we wanted to be quickly and almost for free. It was all a little strange.
The water taxi or bot tambang

After two solid days of Bako cafeteria food and a morning with no breakfast OR coffee, Bryan and I were really hungry and caffeine-deprived. We wandered around a bit, looking for a place with food and coffee, but didn't find much. I was getting irritable (Riley's don't handle hunger gracefully) and we decided just to bite the bullet and eat at the one place we'd seen where we knew we could get both food and coffee...McDonald's. Oh, I'm so ashamed that we would eat at Mickey D's while in a country where people are food-crazy. But I'll admit it - that was one good egg McMuffin. (Interesting sidenote: McDonald's in Malaysia doesn't have milk for your coffee!)

After breakfast, we roamed around town a bit more, just checking out the sites. We noted a bizarre devotion to cats in the city - the shops were full of cat knick-knacks, and there were huge cat statues in a couple of the roundabouts. But why?!
The city had a strange affinity for felines
(See our embarassing breakfast destination in the background)

Because we had our bags with us and a lot of time to kill before our flight, we kind of wanted to hang out somewhere for a while. It was oppressively hot outside, so we opted for air-conditioned Old Town Coffee, where we hung out and read for a few hours (Bryan and I were both deep into the Song of Ice and Fire series, and didn't mind the opportunity to dig into our books!)

After a while, we decided to walk around a bit more. We walked through Chinatown, puzzled over the presence of more cat art, and made our way to the river. We strolled along the river, admiring some of the city's unique architecture. The golden Parliament building is an especially notable presence.
Kuching Parliament Building

In the photo above, the small white fort to the left of the Parliament Building is Fort Margherita. The fort was used in the 1800's to protect Kuching from pirates. Yes, pirates. Awesome. The fort is now abandoned and inaccessible to the public, so we settled for admiring it from afar.

The hot Borneo sun and our heavy backpacks made exploring sweaty work. Before long, we retreated to the Grand Margherita Hotel's cafe, the Orchid Garden Coffee House. From there, we could sit in the air-conditioning, sip cool drinks, and enjoy the view over the Sarawak River. It was so pleasant there that we ended up relaxing until lunctime, when we decided just to eat there. Bryan had some Sarawak laksa, and I had a vegetable patty.
Our yummy lunch!

After lunch, it was time to head to the airport to catch our Air Asia flight back to Singapore. At the airport, we browsed a gift shop where we solved the mystery of Kuching's cat obsession - apparently kuching means CAT in Bahasa! Now we could head home assured that Kuching wasn't governed by a crazy cat lady or something.

Kuching was a great short trip from Singapore. It was a short flight to Kuching, and only a little further to get to the wilderness at Bako National Park. If you're looking for something to do over a holiday weekend sometime, I recommend hanging out with all the wildlife at Bako for a couple of days! We loved it!

Sunday, August 21, 2011

Home Sweet Home

Some of you may have noticed that the blog has been a bit stagnant over the past couple of months. My apologies for the irregularity of the posts - Bryan and I both traveled to the US separately, first Bryan for two weeks in June, then me for three weeks in July and August. The traveling has meant that we haven't had much time for adventuring together, and Bryan wasn't around to take photos, then I wasn't around to write. Anyway, we're both back now and we have something big planned for next month, so I'll try to start posting regularly again.

Since we haven't been doing much in Southeast Asia, I thought it might be interesting to share a bit of what it's like for Bryan and me when we go back to the US. Bryan's family lives in Montana, land of big sky, massive mountains, and abundant wildlife. I love visiting there with him, but I haven't been back since we moved to Singapore two years ago. When he was back in June he had a chance to go camping with some buddies, and he took some pretty amazing photos.
Outrageously gorgeous rainbow near Ronan, Montana
Twin Lakes, Montana
A pretty western tanager, in Montana
An American-sized portion of one of the things we miss most- Mexican food!

As you can probably tell, Montana is truly a beautiful, wild place. I love it there and I'm excited to move back to the US so that it will be easier for me to visit there with Bryan from time to time. It's pretty great that we get to go there to see his family, with the added bonus of all the amazing nature.

Usually when I go back to the US, I just head straight for Ohio, where my family lives, but this time was a little different. I had to attend a conference in Washington DC for a week before heading home. It was interesting to be plopped down in the patriotic capital of America after so long overseas. I always feel a surge of love for the US when I go back - sure, it has its problems (loads, actually), but it will always be my home. I suppose that's why, when the TSA agent stamped my passport and said "Welcome home," I got a little teary-eyed.

My mom was super awesome and took the Amtrak down from Ohio to hang out with me in DC for the week. She also brought a family friend of ours, and we spent the evenings sightseeing, enjoying DC's food, and taking in Shear Madness at the Kennedy Center. It was pretty great.
The White House, complete with snipers on the roof!
Capitol Building...pardon the photography, I took this from a moving vehicle
Honest Abe
Washington Monument at night

When our time in DC was up, I took the Amtrak with my mom and her friend back to Ohio to see the rest of my family. The taxi ride to the train station was the first time my mom and her friend had ever been in a taxi!
Union Station, where our train departed
The ride was scenic and included lots of abandoned buildings  like this one.

We got to Ohio in the middle of the night. It was nice to be back without suffering from extreme jet lag like I usually am. I spent the next two weeks hanging out with family and friends, eating at my favorite restaurants (El Rincon, Pizza Oven, Bombay Sitar, on and on), enjoying my mom's home-cooking, splashing around with my niece and nephew at Wildwater Kingdom, and just generally basking in the joy of a hot American summer (hot by American standards, anyway...nothing compared to S'pore).

I also happened to be home for the biggest week of the year in my hometown of Canton: the Pro Football Hall of Fame Enshrinement Festival. This meant that I got to join in some of the festivities, including watching the Timken Grand Parade with my niece and my brother, who thoroughly enjoyed making fun of me as I failed to recognize any of the famous football players parading by us (he almost fell out of his chair when I mistook Emmitt Smith for a lucky employee who was chosen to ride on a float).
A float modeled after a bridge in Canton
As my niece informed me with ear-piercing shrieks,
 THIS IS ABBY CADABBY!!!!

That's Emmitt Smith in the bowl of candy. I didn't get a good photo b/c
I thought he was just a guy who worked for Hershey's!
Pigskin, super-cute mascot
of the Stark County Visitors' Bureau

I also took advantage of my time in Ohio to stock up on some of the things that we really miss in Singapore. Some of the things we bring back because they aren't available at all in S'pore, and others we bring because they're available in the US at a fraction of the cost. A sampling of what was in my suitcase on my flight back:
  • Smart Start cereal (Singapore ~ $8 USD a box, US about $4 USD a box)
  • Kraft mac and cheese spirals
  • An assortment of nuts from Ben Heggy's, because they're insanely delicious
  • Old-fashioned black licorice for Bryan
  • Big containers of Italian spices
  • A huge bottle of Tabasco sauce (cheaper in the US)
  • Salsa, anything but Tostito's
  • Grape jelly. Seriously, S'pore has EVERY KIND of jelly (black currant, coconut, strawberry, blackberry, etc.) EXCEPT grape.
  • Ziploc steamer bags
  • Almond butter (also from Heggy's)
  • Cans of refried beans
  • Used books- Bryan and I like to have a stock of non-library books for traveling, and used bookstores in the US are much more abundant and much cheaper than in S'pore
Bryan and I are moving back to the US next summer, and we can't WAIT to have all of these things and more available to us all the time. But for now, we'll enjoy all the food I squirreled away in my suitcase, and look forward to stocking up again at Christmas!

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Mark & KT Meet the Monkeys

Ever since Mark and KT announced their intentions to visit me in Singapore, I've looked forward to introducing them to the monkeys.  So, on their third full day, after they'd begun to feel a little less jet lagged and a little more acclimated, we ate some breakfast and headed to Bukit Timah.  We were there a little late in the morning, and the monkeys weren't hanging around their sleeping spot near the Visitor Centre.  We did the circuit of places where the moneys often hang out, and I found my monkeys deep in a construction zone that's off-limits to people.  After watching the monkeys from afar for a few minutes, we decided to move on in the hopes that we'd be able to see the monkeys up-close later.  We started off on a hike, but before going too far down the path, we spotted a different group of monkeys (not the ones I work with).  Some were running around the path, and a few were up in the trees, munching away on some hefty jackfruits.  Mark and KT marveled over their first up-close glimpse of wild monkeys, and I promised them more excitement when we tracked down my monkeys in a more accessible place, as my monkeys are much less timid.

We watched the monkeys awhile before moving on, and after hiking for about 15 more minutes, we found another group of monkeys!  By then it was raining a little bit so we pushed on without taking any pictures.  After a few hours and getting hopelessly turned around a couple of times (if you start a hike on the bike path, the way isn't very well signed), we decided to turn around and head back to the Visitor Centre.  On our way, we spotted a skink, a few monitors, and this yellow and black lizard that I've never seen in Singapore before.  I've looked for some information on the striped yellow and black lizard, but haven't found anything.
Anyone know anything about this little guy?

When we got near the Visitor Centre, I heard the telltale sounds of monkeys alarm-calling, and when we rounded the last bend in the bike path, there they were!  The monkeys that I work with were hanging out along the path and in the parking lot.  I started pointing out the individuals to Mark and KT: Leo, with his distinguished white fur, Catherine with her crippled hand and Oliver, her adorable infant, muscular Hercules, impish Punk, gray-eyed Tanis, mischievous Bryan, and on and on.  We had a tense moment when Mark set his camera down, and Quill stealthily moved in and reached out to swipe it.  KT noticed just in time and crisis was averted.
Catherine & Oliver

"MARK!! YOUR CAMERA!!"

My friends got a kick out of watching the monkeys gather around me like my little minions.  The little ones love to come up to me and pull on my boot laces, tug on my backpack, and attempt to climb my legs when I'm not looking.
Monkey Lady

Once I handed my backpack over to Mark and KT, the monkeys started paying them a little more attention.  Even though I never keep food in my backpack when I go to Bukit Timah, the monkeys can't seem to resist trying to look in there, just to make sure.  I warned my friends to keep a hand on the bag, lest the monkeys scamper off with it.  KT had a foot on the strap, but troublemaker Quill got ahold of it and tugged it away a little bit.  Even though KT still had her foot on the strap, I saw a problem brewing when Quill began to appear a little confrontational.  I walked over and pulled the bag back, then put it on my back.  Quill protested with a weak attempt at tug-of-war, followed by some unhappy grunts and protests, but he let it go pretty quickly, distracted as he was by a riveting game of keep-away his pals were playing with a trash bag.

After enjoying the monkey antics for awhile, our hunger finally got the best of us, and we had to abandon our wildlife watching in pursuit of food.  We walked out of the nature reserve and across the street to a hawker centre, where we enjoyed some tasty Indian food at Al-Ameen.  KT ordered an entire coconut, and Mark got lassi, which he promptly downed in one gulp before ordering another.  Our food was delicious, and even Indian food-wary Mark enjoyed a family-size portion of briyani, which he annihilated with a desperation that I usually associate with starving refugees.  One of my greatest joys of having Mark and KT around was watching them eat.  Some strange family trait enables these two to down unfathomable quantities of food without any apparent consequences- never any indigestion, or a single added pound.

Once we had stuffed ourselves to capacity, we headed home to clean up and get ready to go out for drinks.  As always, a cold shower after a hot day with the monkeys was delightful.  By the time we'd made ourselves presentable, Bryan was home and we all hopped in a taxi and headed for Raffles Hotel.  Raffles is a historical institution around here- the man is a legend, and the hotel has been around since the late 1880's. In its time, it has been the site of a number of notable events, including the killing of the last tiger ever seen in Singapore.  The hotel now stands in a modern neighborhood, a stalwart reminder of Singapore's colonial period.  We were venturing there to see the fancy hotel itself, but also to enjoy Singapore Slings at the Long Bar, the place where the drink was invented!

Bryan and I had been to the Long Bar before, and this time was similar to the last- the atmosphere was relaxing, the bar was beautiful, and the drinks were extraordinarily overpriced but delicious.

After guzzling down Slings at Raffles, we headed to Clarke Quay to show Mark and KT what a Singaporean night on the town is like.  We started out at Brewerkz, one of the places that Bryan and I go when we're craving real American food (they have mac & cheese with the breadcrumbs on top!! Yes!!).  In addition to decent American food, the brewery also concocts some pretty tasty beer.  I love their fruitbrewz, which change regularly.  My all-time favorite was the dragonfruit ale.  Mmmm...

After a round at Brewerkz, we roamed the lit-up, trippy Dr. Seussian quay.  We ogled some of the stranger bars, like the place where you can sit in wheelchairs and have drinks served to you in an IV bag by a waitress dressed like a nurse, or the Whopper Lounge, which is like a fancy Burger King that serves cocktails.  We bypassed these places for the tamer and more reasonably priced Mama's Caribbean Bar, which had yummy cocktails and buckets of Sol, my favorite Mexican beer, which is strangely widely available in Singapore.
Only the finest girly drinks for Mark!! : )

A few drinks at Mama's were all it took to finish us off- after a long, long day, we weren't up for partying the night away, so we put ourselves in a cab and headed home to rest up for another day of adventuring!

Monday, July 26, 2010

Taking on the City

My friends were still adjusting to the time difference on their second full day in Singapore, so we got a late start.  We began by heading to the wet market to have a tropical fruit taste test, and we picked up some strange local treats. On the left is a dragonfruit, which has a texture similar to that of a kiwi, but is less sweet.  There are two varieties- one with white flesh and one with purple flesh.  This one was purple inside, but I didn't notice much difference in taste, except that the purple one was much juicier than the white one I've tried.  The middle fruit is a pretty standard mango, and that odd red, bell-shaped fruit on the right is locally referred to as a jambu.  I asked around for an English term, but most people couldn't come up with one.  Someone finally called it a rose apple.  It was fun to try one, since I've enjoyed watching the monkeys eat them out at Bukit Timah.  The jambu turned out to be my favorite of the fruits we tasted.  It was crisp, light, and not very sweet.  Finally, the cluster of spiky fruits at the top are rambutan.  Once peeled, they look and feel a lot like eyeballs (hence the next photo).  They're a little sweet and really chewy.  Mark and I liked them a lot, but the texture seemed to put KT off of them. 

While out and about, we picked up some other local cuisine to test out- thousand layer cake, red bean paste wrapped in pandan leaves, and Mark got a doughnut.  KT and Mark were shocked by the doughnut- a lot of bakeries around here don't make them the way an American would expect, and this was one of those.  The doughnut tasted like a dinner roll with chocolate icing and whipped cream on it.  Ick!

After our hodgepodge meal, we headed downtown to check out some of the sights.  I got us a little turned around on our way to the Esplanade, and we ended up at a war memorial I'd never seen before.  The memorial was erected to honor those that fell during WWII, when the Japanese occupied Singapore.  The second photo is from inside the memorial, looking up.

After wandering the war memorial in the rain for awhile, I got my bearings and we made a beeline for the Esplanade.  The Esplanade is a large theater downtown, and it's one of the most bizarre buildings around- it kind of looks like a giant silver durian.  We walked through the theater and up to the roof to get a good view of the city.

From the roof, we could see a lot of the notable sights- the brand spanking new Marina Bay Sands Resort & Casino, which was designed to look like a cruise ship got beached across the top of three skyscrapers.  It's pretty neat, and it's been fun watching it built over the past year- Bryan and I have been tracking the progress of the construction since the building was somewhere around the 8th or 9th floor.

The Singapore Flyer, of Amazing Race infamy, can also be seen from the roof.

In the distance, through the rain that was falling sporadically, we could spot the merlion endlessly gushing water.

As the rain began to fall more heavily, we headed back inside and scoped out some of the art displayed inside.  My favorites were the tight rope walkers in the atrium.  The gymnasts and their tightropes were made entirely out of reused plastic bags.  I have a serious appreciation for artists who take trash items and make them new again by incorporating them into something fresh and interesting.

In one of the galleries was a huge painting depicting the recent conflict between the Red Shirts and Yellow Shirts in Thailand.  It was interesting to see a local perspective on the conflict, and I liked the funky, raw style of the painting...but no photos allowed, so you'll have to go see it for yourself!  In the same gallery was a little set where patrons were free to pose and take photos as desired.  We had another senior picture session, laughing at our own antics.

We walked around awhile, perusing our lunch options, and then settled on sushi at a Japanese restaurant called Ichiban Boshi.  I attempted to teach Mark to use chopsticks, but I must not have been doing a very good job of educating, because he quickly requested silverware.  Over lunch, we discussed the plan for the rest of the day, and decided our next move would be to go to Little India, so after yummy sushi we headed out there on the MRT.

Little India is a world away from the quiet, orderly atmosphere of the Esplanade.  It's loud, hectic, aromatic, and a bit messy.  I've only been there once before, so I was doing the same spinning and staring thing that I saw my friends doing.  We struck out down the street and spent some time ducking in and out of various shops and stalls- my favorite place sells sparkly Buddhas and optical illusions of Jesus, that look as though Jesus's eyes are following you everywhere (CREEPY!).

Little India's colonial shophouses are really colorful, and they make for great scenery.


We took some photos of the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple, one of the more colorful Hindu temples I've seen.

We wandered the streets a bit aimlessly, just checking out all the sights.  Eventually we happened upon Mustafa Center, a huge Indian grocery store that our friends have told us about.  We popped in to check things out- I love to cook Indian food and I've had trouble finding some of the ingredients I need (like frozen paneer), so I thought it might be a good place to look.  The store turned out to be a megastore- stories high, jammed with groceries, people, and smells from wall to wall.  The aisles were all really narrow, so people were squished in, squeezing by one another.  The experience was a little overwhelming, and we ended up popping out of the store almost as quickly as we'd popped in.

After walking awhile longer in the heat, we decided to stop for a nice cold beer.  We sat down at one of the stalls along the street, which I referred to as a bar until KT pointed out that it was really just a bunch of tables in an alley.  KT and I shared a delicious Tiger and then decided to try something new.  I saw an ad for a beer that I'd never heard of hanging on the wall, and I said to the waiter, "Excuse me, could we have a Canon One Thousand?"  He threw back his head and laughed, "You mean Canon TEN Thousand.  Super strong beer.  No girl can drink," he said, shaking his head.  I laughed too, then replied, "Well, we'd like to try.  May we have one?"  He smiled broadly as he delivered the beer to the table, but KT and I smiled bigger when we saw the bottle- the label said simply "Canon 10000 SUPER STRONG BEER" and nothing else.  We drank it (despite his warning, we girls stomached it just fine), and it was delicious.

After hanging out and tasting funny drinks for awhile (Mark was cycling through some of Singapore's stranger juice offerings, like soursop juice), we got on the MRT to go up one stop to Chinatown, where we were meeting Bryan and my friend Oliver for dinner.  Another Singaporean friend of ours had told us about a good dim sum restaurant there, a place called Red Star, and we wanted to try it out.  It will probably demonstrate my naivete about Chinese food when I tell you that I had no idea that dim sum is not typically served for dinner, but how was I supposed to know?  Mark told me that it's generally a day time type of thing, but by then we were already on our way to Chinatown.

It turned out to be incredibly fortunate that we asked Oliver to join us, because without his Chinese language skills, I seriously doubt we would have ever found the restaurant in the first place, let alone managed to order dinner.  He stopped for directions a couple of times, and then navigated us to a back alley, through a door, into a dim elevator, and up to the seventh floor of what appeared to be an apartment building.  If I had been with a stranger, at that point I would have plotting my escape from my inevitable kidnapping, because things were looking pretty shady there for a minute.  When we got to the seventh floor, we were in the back of the restaurant, and ended up entering right next to the kitchen (I like to make a grand entrance).  As Mark predicted, dim sum was not being served, so Oliver helped us order a family style meal from a hulking, irritable waitress who slapped Mark's hand away when he tried to pour KT some tea. 

I thought the food was okay, but I understood that a traditional Chinese restaurant isn't the best place to go to get delicious vegetarian cuisine.  Everyone else seemed to enjoy the feast, and the un-American presentation of it- whole shrimp with their tails and skins still on, an entire crab that took up almost a whole platter, etc.  I skipped the meat and enjoyed sticky buns, tofu, and veggies.  Despite Mark's shellfish allergy, he chowed down on things he wasn't supposed to eat , and was predictably covered in hives by the time we got dessert (the strange black blob in the photo below was dessert. It's called gui ling gao, and it looks like black Jell-O and tastes like pretty much nothing).  We detoured to a drug store to get Mark something for the hives, and again we were thankful for Oliver, who knew much more about the local medicines than I did.

After dinner, we headed back to our flat to play some cards and hang out for awhile.  Mark's hives raged on for some time, but were looking a little better by bedtime.  As I fell asleep that night, I thought back to leaving the apartment that morning and couldn't believe everything we'd jammed into one day!