Friday, October 9, 2009

Silly Signs Part Two

There seems to be an abundance of strange and unusual signs in Singapore, so here are some more!

I found this first one in the gardens of Nanyang Technological University. I've heard tales of wild boar roaming these gardens and occasionally wandering further onto campus and terrorizing random students, but I have yet to witness them myself. I did find plenty of lizards though- there seems to be no shortage of those guys!
This next one is a slightly more creative version of the traditional "Don't feed the monkeys" sign. This one (posted at Bukit Timah) features a fat, stupid-looking man heading into a national park and then taunting a monkey with a piece of bread. In turn, the man is then taunted by a park ranger waving a fine. These cartoon-like signs are popular in Singapore, and I like their silly take on serious issues- especially because they always portray the offender as an idiotic oaf. They seem to be saying "You don't want to be like this guy, do you?!"
This sign took us a while to figure out. It's posted on MRT doors throughout the city. Apparently "play, play" is a slang Malay phrase that, loosely translated, means "mess around." So, this sign says "Don't mess around- let me come out first," and attempts (unsuccessfully) to get people to stand out of the way of the doors so that the people on the MRT can get off. Often people stand directly in front of the doors and squish their way on, disregarding the crush of people pushing off the train. Oh the joys of public transportation.This next sign is pretty funny on its own, but the really ridiculous part was that it was posted on a rickety wooden door at the zoo. That left me thinking- if there really is a vicious-looking rhino back there, why is it being enclosed behind this rotting door?!I really like this sign mostly just because the guy is getting bonked on the head. Schadenfreude, perhaps?Hahaha, this one is one of my favorites! WATCH IT! It was posted at Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, where we did actually spot a crocodile. I only wish that he had been sitting at the bottom of this sign so that I could get a picture of both.
I'm on the lookout for more signs, so hopefully I'll be sharing some soon!

Saturday, October 3, 2009

Singapore Slings

Bryan and I have date night every Wednesday, and this week we decided to do something touristy. We headed downtown and got dinner and then went to the historic Raffles Hotel for Singapore Slings. Raffles Hotel has been around since the late 1800's and retains its original colonial style, except now it's surrounded by tall, modern buildings. The hotel was recently named a National Monument, and like many landmarks in Singapore, it's named after Sir Stamford Raffles, the British "founder of Singapore." We explored the expansive grounds of the hotel for awhile, and snapped a couple of photos. Below is one of the several courtyards.The hotel is perhaps most famous for the fact that the Singapore Sling cocktail was invented there in the Long Bar in 1915 by bartender Ngiam Tong Boon. Singapore Slings are fruity drinks made of gin, cherry brandy, club soda, and an herbal liqueur called Benedictine. It's usually served with a slice of pineapple for garnish. The drinks we had at the hotel were super tasty, and of course they were priced for tourists- S$23 a piece (about USD$16). The bar itself was really neat with lots of old wood and antique clocks and a beautiful spiral staircase in the middle. Below are some pictures of us with our yummy drinks. Bryan's trying to look aristocratic like the people on the glasses (the glasses say "Singapore Sling- Raffles Hotel" and have pictures of two people who look like they're from the 1920's).

Thursday, October 1, 2009

31 Things That are Different

Bryan and I have been thinking about things that are different here from how they are in the U.S., and we thought it might be fun to share a list of them with everyone:

1) Drinking. This is a big one- for one thing, alcohol is heavily taxed here, so it's expensive to drink- about $9 USD for the cheapest six pack you can get (Anchor beer). Also, beer isn't usually sold in anything larger than a six pack. And of course, most of the beer is different, with a little overlap. The most popular beer is Tiger, but there are lots of others too- the cheap Anchor I mentioned, Sapporo, Asahi, Tsingtao, Carlsberg, ABC, Heineken. Most of the beers are pretty light, which works well for me since I don't generally like dark beer. My top picks are Tiger and Asahi. Strangely enough, my favorite Mexican beer, Sol, which was sometimes hard to find in Las Cruces, an hour from Mexico, is widely available here on the other side of the world. Another interesting difference is that bars are not widely distributed like they are in the U.S. In fact, most bars are concentrated in areas like Holland Village and Orchard Road, which are full of expats and tourists. In Jurong East, where we live, we don't know of a single bar. There are food stalls that serve beer, which is interesting for a couple of reasons. You can buy beer and drink it with your dinner, or they'll give them to you to go. Also, beer is always served in giant bottles, and they usually give you a bucket of ice so you can put ice in your beer. The picture to the right is beer that was served at a food stall near our apartment- Yanjing and Tsingtao, both delicious!

Even the bars in places like Holland and Orchard are a little different from American bars- they mostly serve food and don't play loud music, and most notably, people don't seem to be getting drunk- just having a drink or two. We've gone with our new friends to a bar in Holland Village a couple of times for trivia night- our team hasn't done too well so far, but I think we're really just getting started. Below are Brian and Andrea, another American couple, in the top picture, and Tei and Tomi, a Finnish couple, in the bottom picture. Brian, Tei, and Tomi all work with Bryan. 2) You have to pay for a membership if you want to take books out of the public library. You also have to pay if you want to place a hold on a book. The library has separate sections for English and Chinese books.

3) At the movies, you're assigned a seat when you buy your ticket. In some theaters, you can look at a screen that shows you which seats are available, and choose the ones you want. In other theaters, they assign seats a row at a time, so even if the movie isn't crowded, everyone still sits together in the back rows of the theater. We've started requesting seats so we don't have to sit right next to people in a mostly empty theater. Also, when you get popcorn at the theater, they ask you if you want salty or sweet- salty is regular, buttery movie popcorn, and sweet is like caramel corn.

4) Driving. The steering wheel is on the right side of the car, and people drive on the left side of the road. As a result, I always try to get in the wrong side of the car, and for the first few days, I always looked the wrong way when crossing the road.

5) Lingo. The elevator is the "lift," air conditioning is "air-con," a text message is an "SMS," eggplants are "brinjals," cilantro is "Chinese parsley," bell peppers are "capsicums," and apartments are "flats."

6) There are almost no TV commercials. Because of the lack of commercials, the shows, which are made for American TV, are too short to fill up a full half-hour or hour block, so sometimes there are fillers, like short interviews with celebrities, music videos, or "minisodes," which are 5-minute episodes of old TV shows like Charlie's Angels and Married...with Children. Local channels have more commercials than cable channels.

7) The phrase "coffee shop" is used to refer to both places that serve food and places that actually serve coffee, so if you walk into a coffee shop and try to order coffee, you might find that they don't actually serve coffee. Actual coffee shops, like Coffee Bean, often have signs posted that ask people to refrain from studying on the premises. And it's kind of hard to get coffee grounds for making coffee at home (they're available but not with much variety- no Folgers! and it's more expensive). Most people drink instant coffee- the kind that you stir directly into hot water.

8) Diet Coke is called Coca-Cola Light. Regular Coke is made with real sugar instead of high-fructose corn syrup.

9) Cigarette packs have terrifying warnings on them that include photos. For example, some show pictures of a disgusting, diseased foot with toes missing and the message "WARNING: Smoking can cause gangrene." Another has a picture of a bloody fetus and the message "WARNING: Smoking can cause miscarriage." Still another has a picture of someone's rotten, black teeth and infected gums and "WARNING: Smoking can cause mouth cancer." And of course there's the one below. There are lots of others, and they're all equally stomach-turning. Everytime I see them I feel glad that Bryan stopped smoking when we moved here.

10) Shoes aren't worn inside people's homes. People leave them in the hallway outside their flats, or on the floors just inside their doors.

11) All men are required to serve two years in the military, where they receive weapons training. However, guns are illegal. This is a strange contrast to America, where people can have guns even if they have no clue how to use them. I have to say, I think I like Singapore's way better.

12) If you order meat here, you don't just get the meat- you get the meat, the muscle, the bones, the ligaments, and the fat (according to Bryan. Vegetables are my specialty).

13) If you bring a computer here from America, you need a transformer for it. If you just plug it into an adaptor, it will constantly emit electricity, giving you little shocks while you work on it. The plugs are different here, and so is the voltage.  So, you need transformers for bigger electronic devices like computers, and converters (but not voltage transformers) for any other, smaller American appliances- hair-dryers, toasters, curling irons, etc.

14) Construction is always going on- seven days a week, and all hours of the day. We saw construction workers working near the MRT at 11 pm on a Sunday.

15) You almost never see police, but when you do you usually see a lot of them at once and they are seriously heavily armed. I'm scared of them.

16) No tipping at restaurants.

17) The clothing and shoe sizes are different.

18) Foods at the grocery store that look identical to foods in the American grocery store might actually have different ingredients. For example, Twix bars here are super-gross, but I'm not sure why. Oreos are pretty nasty too. Even Campbell's soups have different ingredients, so I have to look carefully to make sure that something that I ate in the U.S. is still OK to eat here (e.g. it might have been vegetarian in the U.S., but might contain fish oil here).

19) Eggs aren't refrigerated here. Also, in the store there is a section of refrigerated milk and another section of non-refrigerated milk.

20) Sports. People play squash instead of racquetball, and cricket instead of baseball. Soccer is called football, and the football that I'm familiar with (with helmets and pigskins) is called American football.

21) Phone numbers are eight digits long.

22) Movies and TV shows are censored. Blood and gore are pretty heavily edited out, so if you're watching something like a zombie movie, things can get a little confusing because big chunks are missing. Love scenes are also censored.

23) Because most people live in flats, dogs are pretty uncommon. The dogs that are here are mostly owned by expats who live in houses.

24) The metric system is used for measurement instead of the U.S. system. This means measurements in litres, ounces, degrees Celsius, grams, meters, etc. It also means some confusion for me when following a recipe, or when trying to figure out how hot it is outside.

25) Some handicapped people sell useful things, such as phone cards or little packets of tissue, in MRT stations and bus stations. I think it must be a government program, because it's really common. It seems to be pretty successful.

26) The money is super colorful, and comes in different increments than in the U.S.- 5, 10, 20, 50 cent and 1 dollar coins, and 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 1000, and 10000 dollar bills.

27) All students wear school uniforms.

28) Cars are really expensive to have here, and require special taxes. As a result, cars aren't as common as they are in the U.S., and most people take public transportation. Another interesting side effect is that there are almost no old, crappy cars here. With the exception of things like construction and work vehicles, most cars are in good shape and are relatively new.

29) Chewing gum is illegal in Singapore, unless being used for medicinal purposes. Some chewing gums are sold by pharmacists for dental health purposes, but if people buy the dental gum, their names and addresses are taken down, along with the quantity of gum they purchased. The sidewalks and the subway are perfectly free of nasty discarded wads of gum.

30) Some American chains exist here, but not others. There are McDonald's, Burger King, KFC, Subway, Pizza Hut, Dunkin Donuts, Starbucks, and I even saw a Chili's once. But no Taco Bell, Hardee's, Papa John's, Wendy's, and most importantly, Wal-Mart has not yet reared its ugly head.

31) Most public bathrooms have two options: squat toilets or flush toilets. Squat toilets are exactly what they sound like (see the photo below). I got used to using a more primitive version of the squat toilet (a hole in the ground with walls around it) when I visited Kenya, but I never really mastered it. I'm not proud to say that squat toilets are not my specialty, and I once peed on my own foot while trying to use one. So it goes. Anyway, luckily for me, most places have both options- some places like hawker centers only have squat toilets available, and sometimes you must put 10 cents into a toilet paper dispenser if you would like to wipe. As a good friend of mine is fond of saying, "I'm not used to that, but that's OK."There are many other differences that we haven't mentioned- some have been mentioned previously in the blog, and I'm sure many didn't even occur to us while we were working on the list, and still others remain to be discovered. I'll update soon with any new and interesting differences!

Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Sightseeing

Bryan and I have done lots of sightseeing since we got here two months ago, and I thought it was about time to share some of the stuff we've seen. We've been to the riverfront a few times, and it's a great place to eat lunch. There are a bunch of outdoor restaurants, and it's great to sit outside by the river and watch the little tour boats go by. The only annoying part is that when you walk along the riverfront, you have to walk by all the restaurants and at most of them, someone walks up to you and tries to get you to eat there, showing you the menu, telling you the specials, and generally just being relentless. This is especially irritating for me, because I'm usually making a beeline for the vegetarian-friendly Indian places, and I don't want to be harangued by places where you can point at a fish in a tank and they'll cook it up for you- that's not my thing. Anyway, to the left is a picture of the riverfront. The photo on the right is Bryan at the riverfront. Behind him is the Fullerton Hotel, which is also below- see the American flag on the left?
Not far from the riverfront is the Esplanade, a huge arts complex that's designed to look like a gigantic durian. You can go up to the roof of the Esplanade and see downtown Singapore all around you. That's what we did, and of course as soon as we got up there, my camera battery died. But the view was fabulous, and I'd like to go back sometime with the new and improved camera and a full battery.We also made an excursion to the Asian Civilizations Museum. The museum was great, but it was huge and we didn't end up seeing all of it. We did show up just in time for a performance of a traditional Indonesian tribe's dance performance, so that was pretty neat. The museum has a huge collection of Buddha figures, and we liked looking at those- it's always fascinating to me to see how many different depictions there can be of Buddha- the laughing Buddha with the big belly is in sharp contrast to the thin Buddha adorned with jewelry and all sorts of ornaments. There were also exhibits of traditional attire from a number of different Asian regions, and some of the jewelry was really intricate and beautiful. My favorite exhibit was the one on loan from Raffles Museum of Biodiversity Research- it was a lot of animal specimens collected in and around Singapore, many of which, like tigers, have since gone locally extinct. Below are a couple pictures from the museum- a statue that I really liked and a washed out one of me and Bryan that I think is neat because of the weird reflection of my face that you can see in the upper left corner.So that's some of the sightseeing we've been up to- I'm sure there's more to come!

Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve

To continue with our tour of every nature reserve in the country, Bryan and I went to Sungei Buloh Wetland Reserve, in northwestern Singapore. We tried to take a taxi, but it seemed as though every taxi in the city was occuppied (it was a national holiday- Hari Raya...I'm still not sure what the holiday is, but I'll fill you in once I look into it). So we took the MRT to Kranji and then got on a bus. When you take a bus for the first time, it's always a little confusing, becuase you don't know exactly where to get off or exactly where the bus stops. Normally I would just ask the bus driver to let us know when we got to the right stop, but this particular bus driver seemed to have a personal grievance with everyone on that bus, and was driving as though he intended to kill us all, so I thought it would be best to leave him alone. When Bryan and I saw a sign for the reserve, we got off the bus and then discovered that we were in the middle of nowhere, so we headed off in the direction we thought we should go. It was actually a nice walk, and we saw lots of lizards along the way, including the male (above) and female (below) changeable lizards below. Apparently the males are only this brightly colored during mating season. The black splotch on the neck is also a signal that's only visible during mating season. And the female is eating a grasshopper!
Eventually we found a restaurant and stopped to get something to drink. It was just a random place along a road in the middle of nowhere, but they had the best root beer floats I've ever had in my life. After our super delicious floats, we got back on our way, and found the reserve after only a few more minutes of walking. The reserve is mainly wetland and mangrove habitat, with lots of migratory birds, lizards, fish, and probably snakes, although we didn't see any. When we first walked in, we saw a huge water monitor. We've only seen a water monitor once before, and it was only a baby, so we were totally enthused to see this huge one. Water monitors are so strange- they're huge, and I really think they look like dinosaurs. By the end of the day, we'd seen so many that we weren't even taking photos anymore. We even saw one eating a big fish! These are some of the best photos:There were little hides distributed throughout the park and you could hang out in them and watch the wildlife. When we walked into the first hide, we looked around and didn't see much and then Bryan said "Nothing to see here; let's keep going." That was when I looked over the side and spotted a massive monitor right below us. Bryan and I play a game where we see who can spot the most lizards (or deer, in the U.S.), so sometimes it leads to one of us (me...I'm the loud one) pointing and shouting "TWENTY-ONE!!!!" which probably makes us look crazy to the people around us. Sungei Buloh was record-breaking though; together we'd seen more than 80 lizards by the end of the day, and we had even given up the game because we were surrounded by monitors toward the end. But, for the record, I won. Anyway, here's Bryan peeking out from one of the hides, trying to spot some lizards so he could catch up to my score. We saw a couple of monitor lizards and birds from inside the hides, but mostly we just saw tons of crabs. There were cute little crabs all over the placeLater, as we were walking along the path, we spotted this guy in the water- an estuarine crocodile!So it was a fun-filled day, mostly of reptiles (we did see birds and fish and even a monkey, too). And yes, for those of you that have asked, Bryan and I do, in fact, go places other than the middle of the wilderness, and I will do my best to post some of these more "civilized" locations soon. But for now, enjoy the lizards!

Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Symphony in the Park

A couple weekends ago, we met up with some people from Bryan's work at the Singapore Botanical Garden to see the Singapore Symphony Orchestra perform. Apparently the orchestra does this from time to time, as part of a series called "SSO Classics in the Park." The orchestra performs from the Shaw Foundation Symphony Stage (which looks like a giant clam), and the audience sits on a hill that provides pretty much perfect stadium seating. It was a great atmosphere- families and friends sitting on blankets on the grass, picnicking and drinking wine, surrounded by beautiful flowers and lovely music, and it wasn't even as hot as usual!

The pieces were mostly ones that I've heard played by plenty of American orchestras- composers like Dvorak, Mendelssohn, and Debussy. Interestingly, the only piece by an Asian composer was "Rhapsody for Orchestra" by Yuzo Toyama. The composition had a variety of influences, including Japanese Kabuki theater and old Japanese folk songs. It was great, but I think I enjoyed "Clair de lune" just as much- I guess, like a lot of people, I always enjoy music that I recognize.

Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Pulau Ubin

On Saturday, Bryan and I went on a little excursion. We took the MRT to Pasir Ris (the end of the line) and then got a taxi to the Changi Village Ferry Station, where we got on a bumboat to Pulau Ubin, a nearby island. Public transportation is insanely cheap here- it was only S$2 to take the MRT from one side of Singapore to the other, and the boat ride was only S$2.50. Below are some pictures of the ride over.Pulau (Malay for island) Ubin is technically a part of Singapore, but it's very different. There's no electricity, so the few residents of the island use diesel generators. Most of the island is wilderness, and a lot of people rent bikes from the little village to explore the area. We decided to venture around on foot so that we would be more likely to see some of the resident wildlife. It was lucky that we decided to walk- we ended up walking through a pretty garden with name placards for all of the plants. We saw coffee, ginger, bananas, and something called "Midnight Horror". We also spotted this baby Malayan water monitor right away, perched on the side of an old well. Water monitors are different from the clouded monitors that Bryan and I have seen before. Water monitors can grow to over two meters long, and are among the largest lizards in the world. As their name implies, they spend a lot of time in the water, but like the much smaller clouded monitors, they're also excellent at climbing trees. This one was very young, so he wasn't that big, but it was still really exciting to see one of these guys in the wild. In the second picture, you can see his black forked tongue flicking out.After seeing some wildlife so early in our walk, we were pretty optimistic about our prospects for the rest of the day, and we weren't disappointed. We saw a skink shortly after this, and pretty soon we started catching sight of huge, brightly colored spiders that we later identified as golden wed spiders. The first time we found one it was because I walked directly into its home and ended up with a mouthful of spiderweb. Delicious. Before too long, we started hearing crashing sounds in the woods around us. Although we didn't see anything, we suspected that we might be near the wild boar that our guidebook had warned us about. Sure enough, before long, we caught sight of a huge mama with a bunch of piglets trailing along behind her. We didn't see them very well, as they were obscured by the dense foliage, but we thought it was pretty neat to have seen them at all. We emerged onto a wider path, and saw them standing a ways down- the mom with only two of her piglets. We froze for a second and Bryan snapped a couple of pictures, but when the mom took a couple of intimidating steps toward us, we thought it wise to get out of there. We ended up seeing wild boar two more times that day- once at the wetland reserve at the end of the island, and again on the walk back.On the way to the wetland, we stumbled upon something that I got very excited about...an abandoned building! On the road, someone had written some warnings in rather poor English ("Die Sure!!") with arrows pointing toward the building. Of course, we went and checked it out anyway. One of the things I really like about abandoned things is how nature starts to overtake them before long- plants start to grow through the cracks in the floor, vines climb the walls, etc. Here, in the middle of such lush wilderness, this house was certainly already being reclaimed by the surrounding forest, even though there was still furniture and even some clothes left inside. That's another reason I like forgotten places like this one- it's always interesting to think about why the building is there: Did someone live there? When? Why did they leave? Sometimes things are left behind- a little girls shoe or an old, tattered book- that give you hints about what the inhabitants of the building- it's like modern-day anthropology. Abandoned buildings are rare in Singapore, where space is such a commodity, so I took this one in for awhile, knowing that it might be the last one that I see for a bit.After taking a rather circuitous route, we finally got to the wetland reserve. The visitor center there was a beautiful old Tudor-style home from the era when Singapore was a British colony. The home boasted what a sign said is "likely the only working fireplace in Singapore." I had to wonder what the Brits were thinking. Just looking at it made me feel hotter. The visitor center had a great view of the ocean and we even found a snake (a striped brozeback- the first of two that we saw that day) hanging out in the backyard. The below pictures are the visitor center, the snake (obviously), and me and Bryan out on a walkway on the ocean, in back of the visitor center.Throught the day, we kept encountering these odd-looking creatures. Bryan thought they might be mudskippers, but said he's never seen ones this large before. I was totally baffled and halfway convinced that we'd discovered the evolutionary ancestor of the frog. Turns out Bryan was right (as usual haha). They were indeed mudskippers- giant mudskippers to be exact- and are actually a type of fish with some bizarre adaptations that enable them to breathe and get around out of water. Very strange.
We finally started to head back to the bumboat to go home. It was a long walk, but we saw some more wildlife on the way back, including this hornbill and this very vicious-looking (but dead) scorpion, so it was worth it. We thought about getting dinner on the island but the few open-air restaurants weren't exactly vegetarian-friendly (lots and lots of seafood), so we headed back to the mainland and got the first decent Mexican food we've had in Asia- at a place called Tequila Blue in Changi Village. It was quite a day, and after the long MRT ride, it was nice to finally get home and kick back.